This page is dedicated to gear recommendations

You know how they say in real estate it’s location, location, location? In the gear world it is weight, weight weight. This should lead any purchasing decision. Here is an example I prepared for the backpacking MB course:

You get the idea. Carrying a heavy pack is just no fun.

QUESTION EVERYTHING YOU PACK!

Here are some specific recommendations based on my experience:

Sleeping Bags:

I am a down believer. When I was in the army, they used to say down keeps you warm even when wet (ducks stay warm in the water, don’t they?). Now they say that about synthetic. The wet OD green cotton covered down bag kept me warm, I do remember that. What I don’t like about synthetics is they don’t pack small enough. They may dry quicker than down, that could be a positive. I’ve never ventured out with one, but I am willing to try. What I can say is that from experience, it gets really cold at night when camping. I believe a 0 degree bag is the only way to go. It does not take up more space, it can be unzipped if needed, and you always have the best when called upon. In the dog days of late July-mid August, I do have a lightweight Cascade 45 degree bag. Most of the time however I go out with the 0 bag. Brand was not a factor for me, price was. I got all our bags at REI/EMS bag sales over the years for about $100 each. If you know any good websites to buy them, let me know. Always pack your sbag in a garbage bag or something waterproof.

  

Tent

This is where weight really counts. You can’t backpack anything more than a 2 man tent. If you do a 2 manner, make sure the weight is in the 3-4 lb. (maybe 5) range. You always have the ability to split the gear up and share the weight. For a groundcloth, get a piece of Tyvex building wrap, works great. I have several tents, the one I really like is our REI Half Dome (pic above). They are lightweight, inexpensive (goes on sale fairly often at $109), it has louvers in the rainfly to eliminate condensation, and it has a simple clip-on exterior 2 pole design. Everything you need in a tent. Weight can be a tad bit better. We have a Sierra Design Meteor which is similar and offers slightly more room. It pack just a little bulkier. It is also a very good tent.

For our extended trips, I have Henessey hammocks (all I ever used during my military time).

I’ve been eyeing those really light Hubba-Hubba tents from MSR. Can’t bring myself to making a purchasing decision as the hammocks work so well. Not sure about that new silicon impregnated nylon material either. I need something durable. The 4 1/2 lb. Eclipse tent by EMS is another one that looks interesting. What I like about this is the easy pole clip design, weigh, decent storage vestibules, and an integrated rainfly (so you carry poles & tent, no additional rainfly). It is a little pricey ($189) and I am not sure I trust the design. I’d like to test one. Big Agnes’ Seedhouse tent is another good one to consider. I’m not a fan of their vestibule design or pole configuration, but they are extremely lightweight (they’re all mesh like the MSR tent).

Basically in a tent you want light weight, durability, a non-funky poles design, condensation vents, mesh siding not too near the bottom (and a bathtub type bottom to keep rain out), and usable storage vestibules (the extension of the rainfly away from the tent where you can put your gear).

Always, always hang your tent/rainfly out when you get home and clean it if necessary. This should be the first thing you do.  Never leave it in its storage bag (unless completely dry and aerated).

  

Backpack:

People often make mistakes on this purchasing decision. You must think about weight on this item. You can easily pick up a 7 lb pack without thinking. You want to stay 4 and 4 – meaning, you want about a 4lb pack that carries at least 4000 cubic inches. I would go a little more if you have a good option in front of you (say 5000 cubic inches if in the 5-6 lbs range). I have a Gregory Z pack that is very light (3lbs), but it’s not big enough at 3550 cubic inches – even for ultralight backpacking in my opinion.

Between the external frame and internal frame – you don’t see too many externals around anymore so you have less choices. I use the internal frames only because they tend to be more comfortable on longer hikes. My son’s first pack was the green external frame Kelty Trekker at 3900 inches. Not a bad first pack. Kelty does make a slightly larger one that is gold in color. I’d go for that one if I had to do it again. He has since moved out of his to a larger pack. The Kelty pack is great for young scouts. They sell these at the scout store in my area. The externals also contribute to the Beverly Hillbilly look – you’ll see many scouts hitch everything up externally and then clank and clatter to your destination. Being prepared is something you need to instill pre-hike.

Day Pack:

I just bought this new Gregory Z22 pack. It has a really cool back design where the pack is lifted off your back by structural wires. It is way more comfortable on the back and sweat is evaporated away. Size is just right. My friend bought a similar pack by Osprey. Before this, I used a Jansport school-type pack for years and just sucked it up.

Sleeping Pad:

I’ve got everything – Thermarest thin and thick, foam roll ups, foam folding pads – but I just could not get a good night’s sleep (age is a factor I’m sure). Then I found it…the perfect piece of gear – The Big Agnes inflatable lightweight air mattress. $50 (on sale), 1 lb of heaven. Seems well built. I’ve have had good luck with it for this past year. Stays at home on a really long distance hike, weight again is everything. http://www.rei.com/product/713596

Hiking Shoes:

Remember, heavy boots are the same thing as a heavy pack. You want durability, comfort, and light weight. I bought these Merrell Mesa hiking shoes and I love them. EMS, Bob’s Stores, REI all have. You’ll know what I mean when you see them. They may have renamed them to the Moab.

  

Hiking Poles: 

I seldom use (except when entering the snow line) but my kids take along. Envitably they want me to carry them midway through the hike. Three things you should keep in mind when purchasing. 1) Weigh, 2) collapsible length (you want to make sure you can stow in a day pack if not using), and 3) type of locking mechanism. Most poles have the twist type locking mechanism. I’ve had two sets of poles (admittedly, not high end) where they broke. What I like are the flick-lock design, where, similar to a quick release on a bike tire, you raise a mechanism to adjust pole length. Black Diamond is one manufacturer. I’ve had these poles for 4-5 years now and haven’t had any problems.

 

Canteens:

My suggestion is to ditch the heavier nalgene type bottles in favor of used 32 oz. gatorade containers. These are durable, lightweight, and recyclable/disposable if need be. In emergencies (i.e., middle of the night, pouring rain outside your tent, you know), they can double as portable bathrooms if needed. You can also use powered gatorade mix in them and not have to worry about contaminating your “good” bottles with the inpregnated flavoring that always lingers.

I am not a big fan of hydration bags. They are very difficult to clean and dry properly. To me, they represent  money that just does not need to be spent.

 

Food:

This is a good article I culled from somewhere:

•Pack Your Pack to Pack Your Body

•The One Pan Gourmet

•By Don Jacobson

•Carbon-fiber tent poles or aluminum? How much sleeping bag is enough? High-tech tentage or a tarp? Modern trekkers live by one core principle … that packing light makes the journey right. Enlightened hikers realize that ultralight equipment technology allows them to reduce overall weight but still carry more fuel for the human engine that drives them up the mountain and down the trail — food.

•Food is the one item you cannot skimp on, or all the money you have spent going high-tech will go right down the drain. Your 10-mile Sunday return jaunt will turn into the last leg of an enduro. The savvy trekker pays as much attention to the inner technology of the food he or she packs as to the bag that holds it.

You need about 3,500 calories per day to keep your body’s furnace stoked on an average hike through moderate terrain. You can hit that figure by eating seven bologna sandwiches. But that’s hardly the right choice. Forget the style points lost by munching on three slices of beige meat in a meal only a 1950s sitcom mom could love. The nutritional value makes the sandwiches a miserable choice for any athlete, with about 60 percent of the calories generated by fat.

If you are as serious about food technology as you are about your gear, consider this: A three-day-trip will require you to carry about 10,000 calories just to keep you going. How that energy is composed … well, that’s up to you. You can purchase freeze-dried food in a bag, and some of that’s fine. But if you take a little time to really cook, you can create some toothsome outdoor delicacies that really pack some punch, in taste and nutrition. Plan to eat three meals, either hot or cold. And add to your calorie load by snacking on “pocket foods” like trail mix or Hudson Bay Bread as you walk. But take this ratio into account when you are planning your total menu: 50-30-20.

Carbohydrates should account for about 50 percent of your calories. Your body burns carbs first … and keeps burning them. That means you need to replenish them throughout the day or you will bonk! Feast on complex carbs found in foods like breads, beans, rice, pasta, and starchy vegetables. Fruit can fill out your carb load.

Generate another 30 percent from fat. Fats are the mother lode of concentrated energy (9 calories/gram as opposed to 4 calories/gram for bread), but take longer to convert. Eat fats earlier in the day! Make sure your trail diet is high in “good” fats (mono and polyunsaturated) and low in “bad” fats (saturated and trans fats). Include walnuts, avocados, fish, and lean meats.

The final 20 percent should be found in protein. Protein is really not a power source for your daily activities. Your body will convert only about 10 percent of the protein you eat into energy. The rest (150 grams or less) will be used to rebuild muscle, up to a point. Leftovers will be dealt with by your kidneys. Protein-rich foods include lean meats (especially skinless chicken and fish), beans, and peanut butter.

High-tech or paleo-tech — it’s your choice. Just keep in mind that the quality of your outdoor experience will come as much from inside as what you carry on the outside. The scenery will be all the more breathtaking if you have the power to lift your head and open your eyes after a 12-mile, 6,000-vertical-foot day. The only way you will have that energy with you is if you planned for it long before you loaded your pack and started up the trail.